Monday, June 8, 2009

I've been in Buenos Aires just over a week now, and it's about time I started this blog. I finally take the chance to do so as I sit in 'El Ateneo', voted as one of the 10 most beautiful bookstores in the world. Today was the first time I opened my books, and got some homework done. The main reason for this being that so far my classes haven't been too stressful. I've instead been spending my time roaming the city, interacting with my host family, reading, and of course trying to get a grip on the political landscape of Argentina.

I arrived on the morning of Friday, the 29th of May, on a group flight along with a number of other kids doing the same program as me. We were received most graciously by the director and assistant directors of the program at the airport, and packed off into cabs to go to the homes of our various host families. I was welcomed to my third floor apartment in the upper middle class 'barrio' of Palermo by Cecilia and Freddie, my host parents for the next six weeks.

As the week has gone by, I have found them to be most cultured, educated and artsy people, and I have thoroughly enjoyed all my interactions with them. Freddie is a freelance photographer, and has exhibitions of his work in the city from time to time, while Cecilia is a psychologist, and receives patients in the house. There apartment has a definite artsy tinge to it, with paintings donning all walls (a lot of them done by friends and some by Cecilia), and books on philosophy covering most of the bookshelves. I have also been lucky to have two host sisters. Well, not real host sisters, but two American students, Shanna and Kindra, who are taking part in different study abroad programs who are also staying with Freddie and Cecilia. Since they've been here for longer, I've been able to get tips on the city from an outsiders perspective, that have certainly been helpful.

After eating my first lunch with my host parents, I set off for our first orientation meeting which involved a language aptitude written and oral test. Having just flown for about 15 hours, none of us were in the best state to write an exam, but we got through it, and were afterwards treated to a sumptuous welcome dinner for our troubles. The next day, we were taken early in the morning to an 'estancia' (somewhat like a ranch, or farmhouse), about 60 km from Buenos Aires, for a two day orientation. This proved to be a good way to get to know the others in the program, and we attended a number of sessions dealing with academic expectations, life in the city and security etc.

In the last week, I have really come to appreciate the city that Buenos Aires is. It is full of wonderful cafes (in which you can sit for as long as you like wihtout being bothered, as long as you order something), well maintained parks, national landmarks, street fairs and bars. Being as large as it is, and holding one third of Argentina's population, it is remarkably safe, though of course there are a few areas that are known to be best not visited alone. Argentinians are known for their crazy lifestyle when it comes to going out. Dinner is usually had at around 9 or 10, and most clubs only open at 2 am. Coming home after a night out at 6 or 7 am is considered pretty standard. I've mostly been making use of the subway (subte) system, which is the easiest to figure out. Buses are useful some times, but are not as inconvenient as they only accept monedas (coins). I have found to be true what we were told during our orientation: You will find a constant game being played in Buenos Aires, that of trying to accumulate as many monedas as possible. This consists of customers constantly paying with large bills at stores, and shopkeepers eternally alleging that they have no change. He/she who can hold out for longer wins.

During the last week, I have also found time to get involved with the local chapter of AIESEC here in Buenos Aires. Luckily, I already knew a member before coming: Lucas, who came to Yale the past semester for an exchange for 6 weeks. He showed me around the city during my first few days, helping my buy a cellphone and figure out the public transport system. Since then, his lovely parents have hosted an elaborate dinner for me in their apartment, laden with steak and wine, of course, along with a discussion on Argentinian politics. On my third day here, I attended a meeting of the EB of the LC at a local university here, where I tried to keep up as much as I could with the rapid Spanish being spoken. A couple of days ago I attended the local committee meeting, where I was given a rousing welcome, along with a welcome package, which included some yerba mate (the most popular drink here, made of some kind of bitter herbs..I actually have no idea what it's made of), along with a guide book to Argentinian slang.

One of hte highlights of my trip so far has been attending a world cup qualifier football match between Argentina and Colombia. This was particularly special for me as I have followed the sport for a long time, but have never had the opportunity to actually attend a match. Though the game itself wasn't too dramatic, there were some moments of magic from Messi, and the overall atmosphere in the stadium, because of the passion of the Argentinian football fans, was magical.

And lastly, I have been trying to wrap my head around the current political landscape in Argentina. One thing is for sure: it's very complicated! The traditionally main parties of the countries are the Peronists, Radicals and Conservatives. However, over time, each of htese parties have become fractured and split up, into rightists and leftists wings. So much so that the leftists wings of the Peronists and Radicals have more in common with each other than with their respective rightist wings. The current government of President Kirchner belongs to the leftist progressive wing of the Peronists. At first, I was rather impressed with it, based on the little knowledge that I had. Being socially progressive, using a capitalist system but concentrating on social welfare schemes such as education, enable the government to have friendly relations both with the US, as well as leftist regimes of Venezeuala and Cuba. However, after speaking with more people here, I have come to find out that the current government isn't all that popular. Its incessant populism leaves much to be desired in long term planning for the sustainable success of the country, as well as rampant corruption and ineffectiveness.

I'll end here, and will be back with more later, as I explore more of the city, meet more people, and learn more in class about Argentina's history and current polity!

9 comments:

  1. Oh my god! I really wish to be there!! That bookstore is amazing it is my favourite!!! Enjoy the city, walk a lot, talk a lot, go out! and take many pictures. Argentinians are crazy (don't try to undersand!) but love the city.

    Te mando un abrazo enorme y me encantaria estar alla. Espero vuelvas para visitarme.

    BESOTE!!

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  2. Sounds amazing!! Keep writing Ras, and put up more pictures!! xxx

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  3. My favourite bookshop was Scribners in New York, I don't think it exists anymore. A lot of beauty has been lost in our world, lost to the hardscrabble competitive life which seems to peal off the trimmings, and, beauty, I think, is in the trimmings...
    Tell some goofy stuff thats happening also, Little Seshu! Seshu was a great Japanese painter, by the way...now, I shall end, or else you will feel your Mashi is taking over your blog! Love, Mallu mashi

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  4. Hey Seshy! haha. So you survived the game. Good to know. Let me know what you're up too. We can grab lunch after class or something.

    Cya!

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  5. That is a damn cool bookstore.

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  6. bring home
    1) a gourd for mate
    2) wine
    3) wine

    I think I have mate from Lucas still but you can't drink it properly without the gourd!

    Hugs

    Michele

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